The Final Steps

By the time we meet for a delicious Jordanian breakfast of flatbread, hummus, honey and yogurt the sun had risen and a pink glow suffused the landscape. First stop on the final steps of our desert adventure is Wadak Rock Bridge. Easy to climb, this natural bridge offers great views across a broad expanse of desert. There is little left of Lawrence's House. Nonetheless, the legend is enough to attract flocks of tourists. Back on the camels, we wind our way back to civilisation.

We swap our camels for a taxi and head to the port city of Aqaba, which lies on the northern tip of the Red Sea. The crystal clear waters of the Gulf are wonderfully refreshing after the sand and heat of the desert. 

The highlight of the journey back home was the cobalt-blue Dead Sea, whose waters have a salt concentration of 34%, ten times more than ocean water. The Dead Sea, the lowest place on earth at 431m below sea level, beckons visitors with healing mineral waters and air so rich in oxygen it protects you from sunburn. Part of the Great Rift Valley, the lake is fed by the River Jordan, but it has no outlet.

I am excited to take a soothing dip in water so saline it's slimy, but not jumping up and down excited. It is a unique experience as you just kind of fall back into the water and float. You cannot sink if you try! You also cannot get this water in your eyes since the salt content is so high it will burn. Sadly, the sea has shrunk by 30% and scientists say we may have as little as fifty years to float in these healing waters. I hope that the human race realises what it is doing to this beautiful place (and others) before it is too late.

Wadi Rum Camel Ride

I am encouraged to approach the Dromedary and sling my leg over. Warily, I comply. There is a guttural groan from the beast between my legs and I am thrust into the air...

Hannibal, so christened due to his protective face sock, already seems sick of my company. I watch the rest of the small group rocket into the air one by one. We make ourselves as comfy as humanly possible on the solid wooden saddle, we head south into the expansive orange blanket of sand. All around, the imposing peaks of the purple-red sandstone mountains loom large here. I was just becoming accustomed to the lumbering roll of the camel, when we arrive at our first stop, Lawrence Spring. Our hiking boots stomp over fossilised urchins that once lived in ancient seas, sending Agama lizards running for cover as we ascend to the viewpoint.

Hot sugary mint tea is waiting for us as we arrive back at the camels. Hannibal catapults me into the air again and we follow timeworn shepherds’ paths across the plains.  After a spot of lunch and a quick snooze, Hannibal takes me on testicle squashing trot to Jebel Khazali Siq viewpoint.

Back at the camp, we are treated to another feast of chicken, rice, onions, and carrots. The ingredients were placed over hot coals then buried underground to cook. The dish is ceremoniously unearthed later and served with chunks of Arbood bread and homemade hummus and salads. Time for another snooze... ;-)