Epilogue

Expedition /ékspidísh’n/ n. a journey where the outcome is uncertain.

Right now we are supposed to be on our flight, leaving Kangerlussuaq after a successful expedition and this has got me thinking…

We always knew the expedition was going to be challenging, especially given that we were attempting the crossing at one of the most difficult times of the year. The vast majority of crossings are completed in April or May, when the snow cover and weather are good. When we first arrived the whole of Kangerlussuaq (all 400 of them!) were reminding us of this fact. It’s not that we didn’t believe them. It’s just that we were so stupidly optimistic. We were going to solve every problem thrown at us and we were going to enjoy doing so. After all we had managed it in Iceland when all the locals were telling us the same thing!

We were wrong. We were there too late. The terrain was too tough – there was not enough snow and too much water. As a result we were moving too slowly and the pulks broke.

On the brightside, we were able to get ourselves out of a tricky situation without needing to be rescued. We live to fight another day :)

There are, however, lessons to be learned:

1. When planning the trip we should have been less blasé about the timing of the crossing. That said, we didn’t have much say in when we went – most of the group are teachers.

2. Equipment – the blue pulks were just not up to the job. We should have all gone with the tried and tested orange pulks or completed a practice journey to test the equipment.

3. If we had booked flexible flight tickets, we would have saved a fortune!

4. Take the maps with you! Do not just rely on GPS.

5. Make sure every member of the group is involved in the planning and they are all aware of the demands of this type of adventure.

Adventure over – lessons learned and as Arnie says…

“I’ll be back” :)

Time to go

The final day in Kangerlussuaq. Time to clean up and pack. I even managed to sneak into the hotel (James Bond style) to have a shower :)

So it is here that I shall finish my diary because when we get to Copenhagen we will all be going our separate ways...

Where does this piece go?

Woke up this morning by the sound of Eurofighters landing at the airport. We spent much of breakfast debating the reasons for them being here. I then whiled away the hours by cleaning my stove, repairing my boots, reading,…

Went over to the airport later on to get a free shower, but the airport was so packed (two flights had been grounded) that they politely sent us away. It was here that we discovered what had gone on in England (and therefore the probable reason for the Eurofighters).

After eating a ‘Musk Ox’ pizza and downing a few beers, Alistair and I went climbing up the slabs near the campsite onto the ridge for some stunning night-time views of Kangerlussuaq.

Happy Birthday Smir!

An Expensive Day

After a terrible nights sleep, we went hunting for our free breakfast – Mark somehow got lost!? During breakfast we were given our marching orders. We hurriedly packed, then Matt and I went to sort the flights and rest sorted the gear.

The next three hours were some of the worst of the whole trip. All we were trying to do was get out of here! We went from earning £60 to losing £80 :( The afternoon was spent sorting our own flights from Copenhagen to home – another £80 lost :(

This is an expensive lesson to learn!!

Matt showed us the maps he had produced for the journey. It appears that we were two-thirds of the way across the lakes and then the terrain levelled out. Alistair said that this made him feel better. It had the opposite effect on me – it pissed me off! We could have done it. Why didn’t we have these maps with us? If we had, our decision of whether to go back or not would have been more informed.

Later on we had a quality BBQ and chatted to a lovely German couple and an odd (but v. nice) old man. Then after a bottle of whisky, we retreated to our tents.

Taxi!

With the taxi not picking us up until 1500, we had lots of time to kill. I spent this time aching all over!

Tonight we are planning on stopping over in either the YH or the hotel in Kangerlussuaq, so that we can get properly cleaned up. I will miss living outdoors. The thing about living outdoors is that it peels back the veneer of everyday life. You start thinking about who you really are and what you really need. I used to think I needed the latest car, motorbike or mobile phone, but that all that seems a bit silly now.

As we were packing our stuff a tourist bus arrived and loads of Danes, Germans,… spilled onto the icecap to take photos. Morten, their driver, came over for a chat. He is planning to do the crossing next year – alone! We discussed the difficulties our expedition had experienced – talking to him made me realise what we had actually achieved.

As we finished lugging our pulks up the hill to the pick up point, our taxi rolled into view – perfect timing :) We exchanged pleasantries and then I suggested we got on with loading the trailer. “No!” replied Nils “there is a more important task to be done first”. Nils then produced a crate of beer from the boot of his ‘car’. After a few beers and a chat about the expedition, we loaded the trailer and headed for Kangerlussuaq.

As Nils drove us through the spectacular scenery, he also managed to organise our accommodation, food for the evening and collect our left-luggage! Upon arrival at the YH, we got free freshly baked buns and a nice warm shower – civilisation at last :)

The evening was a frenzy of activity. Packing, unpacking, drinking, eating (Musk Ox – like a very rich roast beef), darts and finally bed.

Expedition - Day Thirteen

Start: 1601
Weather: Cloudy and cold.

I woke up suddenly this morning as the wombat was preparing to leave the cave. I dashed outside and did the dirty deed. It was at this moment that I noticed how beautiful this place is. Until now I would be looking at the huge ice formations and wondering how the hell we would get through it. Only now did I notice how spectacular this place is.

After porridge I went to fix my pulk – another impressive bodge job (I just hope it lasts!).

When we finally got everyone out of their sleeping bags, we set off on what we hoped would be our last day. Although the icecap did it’s best to not let us leave!

First Iain’s pulk completely broke, so Matt, Alistair and myself took on more weight. I think my pulk weighs more now than it did at the beginning.

Next my bodge job to the pulk poles failed after a pretty spectacular crash. Alistair’s pulk poles then broke in a similar way.

When Alistair reported that there was only two more kilometres to go, my spirits were lifted – only to be dashed moments later. The ground was becoming steeper and icier, whilst we were becoming very tired. The next kilometre was definitely the toughest terrain of the whole expedition. That said, we were rewarded with some impressive sights – huge waterfalls, ice caves,…

The final kilometre marker brought with it the sight of land on those rickety bridges. The ground was no longer strenuous, but challenging in another way. The final kilometre was like a maze and every turning was a dead end. Eventually Iain and Matt a way through and we headed towards land.

I have never found two kilometres so taxing in my whole life.

I was the first to arrive at the bridge – the first to finish. When I arrived there I felt nothing. I kinda expected to feel relief, happiness, a sense of achievement,… but instead I felt absolutely nothing.

Matt was the next to arrive with Mark, Alistair and then Iain following. Nobody said anything. Alistair gave me a knowing look, but besides that – nothing. I guess they all had the same empty feeling inside.

Tired and hungry, we crawled into the tent for our last night of wild camping.

Camp: N 67° 9’ 5·9” W 50° 2’ 24·1”
Alt: 513 m
Distance: 7·34 km
Finish: 2332

Expedition - Day Twelve

Start: 1602
Weather: Sunny.

This morning wasn’t a complete waste of time. We booked our transfer off of the icecap (Monday 7th August @ 1500) and Mark almost burned the tent down whilst trying to repair his gloves!

As the midday sun beamed overhead, we lay in the tent as our gear slowly dried outside. I feel more relaxed than I have the whole trip. The pressure is definitely off.

By 1500 we had finally managed to coax Alistair from his sleeping bag in order to start the day properly. As we battled our way through the tough terrain, there were a few disasters… Alistair had a petrol leak and I broke both of my pulk poles (again)!

When we reached the site of Iain’s dip in the glacial pool, we couldn’t believe how much it had changed. According to the GPS it had moved 7m (although this could be an accuracy issue). Its no wonder the Russel Glacier is considered one of the fastest moving glaciers in the world.

With the sun slowly sinking in the sky we reached a huge crevasse. There was no obvious way forward, so we set up camp for the night. We ate our couscous and watched a beautiful sunset.

Camp: N 67° 9’ 11·4” W 49° 54’ 39·6”
Alt: 752 m
Distance: 6·05 km
Finish: 2013

Expedition - Day Eleven

Start: 1402
Weather: Cloudy and humid.

Another day, another morning of sitting in the tent, waiting for Matt, Iain and Alistair to have breakfast.

When they eventually surfaced, we took some promo shots for Carl Bro and the charities – except Matt who did not bring his t-shirts!

I was quickly reminded of why I didn’t want to turn around, once we had set off. The chossy terrain didn’t seem as bad going downhill, but it was still hard work. The going got a little easier once we met up with the VW ice-road, but after it petered out the crevasses got bigger and bigger…

Tired and cold, we set up camp then the rain started pouring. A week tonight we will be winging our way to Copenhagen. In a strange way I cannot wait.

Camp: N 67° 8’ 38·9” W 49° 44’ 48·3”
Alt: 825 m
Distance: 5·73 km
Finish: 1808

Expedition - Day Ten

Start: 1127
Weather: Cold and cloudy.

Mark and I were up early this morning, the other tent were not. They seem to have given up – don’t blame them really.

Once we were on our way, spirits seemed to have lifted. Today’s target is to get to the edge of the difficult ground. En-route I repaired Mark’s pulk, Alistair’s pulk and my pulk (three times). I am getting quite good at bodging repairs (my Dad would be so proud!?).

As legs were tiring, I got a spurt on (I just want to get out of here now) and steamed past our target of camp 5 into a new camp for tonight – near one of the biggest crevasses we have seen on this trip.

Alistair told me today that he’s on the first flight out of Copenhagen – we land at 0800 and he flies at 1030! Guess that sums up how he’s feeling :/

Still, just 18km to go…

Camp: N 67° 7’ 48·1” W 49° 37’ 2·2”
Alt: 923 m
Distance: 10·70 km
Finish: 1652

Expedition - Day Nine

Start: n/a
Weather: Cold and cloudy (with patchy rain).

It was a slow start this morning – in fact it turned out to be a non-starter!

We started with good intentions. We used the sat phone to re-book our flight to Copenhagen. We now fly on Friday the 11th August 2006 @ 2300 with Arctic Tours. It lands in Copenhagen on the 12th @ 0800.

This gives us nine days to get back to Kangerlussuaq – plenty of time, so we decided to take a day off!

It’s in this downtime that you eat, sleep, read, chat (about nothing really) and think. I spent my thinking time planning my next adventure. OK this one didn’t quite go according to plan, but you live and learn. The seed of a plan has now been planted (thanks to Matt) and is already growing strongly in the fertile sludge between my ears.

In the evening we played a game of name that tune – Alistair and Matt provided the tunes!? After which Matt and Iain planned a night out in Copenhagen.

The day then slowly fizzled out.

Camp: N 67° 4’ 16·4” W 49° 24’ 52·3”
Alt: 703 m
Distance: 0 km
Finish: n/a

Expedition - Day Eight

Start: 1502
Weather: Cold and cloudy.

I woke up this morning – my mind racing. Did we make a rash decision? Could everything be piled into the three usable pulks? … Is there anyway of keeping the dream alive?

It’s so frustrating – we are all fit, healthy and strong. We can do this!

Then reality kicked in and all of a sudden there seemed no urgency required when doing anything.

A wise man once told me that the mind will crumble long before the body – he is right. Enough of the ‘what ifs’.

New objective: To get every member of the group off of this icecap safely.

First step – sort the pulks.

Alistair designed this amazing (almost Ray Mears like) repair to Iain’s pulk. If it is successful, we’ll repair Mark’s tomorrow.

Somewhat reluctantly, we headed off – West. As we are plodding along, my mind running trough all the possibilities for salvaging this expedition, I hit on something. I went to speak to Alistair…

I offered to take Mark and the two duff pulks back to the beginning, so that Iain, Matt and Alistair said that Iain had already offered to do this and he had declined his offer – it just would not be safe to split the group.

Alistair and I then had an open and honest discussion as to why the expedition was unsuccessful – lessons have been learned by both of us.

The ‘Ray Smirs’ repair to Iain’s pulk held up well to the crevasse crossings, but the moment we had to start to jump rivers, it fell to bits :(

As we plodded on further we saw our first bit of wildlife – no, not a polar bear, a tiny bird (probably an Arctic Tern) came swooping over our heads.

A bit further on we decided to set up camp and call it a night.

Camp: N 67° 4’ 16·4” W 49° 24’ 52·3”
Alt: 703 m
Distance: 8·45 km
Finish: 2006

Expedition - Day Seven

Start: 1110
Weather: Sunny with a cold wind.

So here we are on our second day of going around the ‘water feature’. We have spent most of yesterday and all of today going in the wrong direction just to get around this ice-canyon, which is a huge worry. We have at least another 30km of this type of terrain and we cannot really afford to waste any time. Plus the longer the pulks are on this type of terrain, the more damaged they will become.

Iain and Mark are already struggling as their pulks are damaged the most – the cracks in the front are taking in so much snow that the pulks are becoming heavier and heavier. As a result their pulks are no longer gliding across the snow (what little there is), but burrowing into it – another cause for concern.

I don’t know why we stopped for camp tonight when and where we did – we just did.

Once we had set up camp, Mark and I went on a recce to find the way ahead for tomorrow. Good news (of sorts) just 2km more in the wrong direction, then we can start heading east again.

Upon our return, we climbed into Matt’s tent to tell the guys what we had found. Whilst Mark was feeding back our findings, Iain passed me the sat phone – on it was a message from my Mum, which read:

“lee, sorry to hear that your expedition has not worked out. have a safe journey back, love mum x”

I was really confused and angry that such a decision had been made behind my back. When I spoke to the group about this, Alistair reassured me that no decision had been made – he had just told Ems that we would more than likely have to head back. I believed what he said – Alistair is my friend and he wouldn’t lie to me.

This led to us having the discussion that I knew deep down we would need to have sooner or later.

Our primary objective – to ski across the icecap to Kulusuk – was, given the terrain, beyond us. We all agreed on this.

Our secondary objective – to ski to the Dye 2 station – was a cause for further discussion…

Camp: N 67° 4’ 29·0” W 49° 13’ 11·7”
Alt: 1112 m
Distance: 5·09 km
Finish: 1620

For

1. We have to average 7km per day (as the crow flies) to reach the Dye 2 station in the remaining three weeks. This leaves us with 8 days before our flight out of Kangerlussuaq in which to charter a twin-otter plane to come and get us. Expensive, but doable.

2. I want to achieve something from this trip.

3. I don’t want to fail.

4. It is probably harder to go back through all that chossy stuff.

Against

1. The terrain – we may be through the worst of the crevasses, but the rivers and the lakes pose us further problems. It has taken us two days to get around a relatively small river system.

2. The pulks – cracks are appearing in everyone’s pulks, except mine :) can they take anymore of this?

3. The weather – it has been good to us so far, but…

4. The lack of snow – not only does this slow our pace (since we cannot use our skis), but we also cannot protect the tents from the winds.

5. It would be irresponsible of us to push on knowing that we will need to be rescued.

The Decision

After much debate, we decided to repair the pulks as best we can and head home :(

I feel absolutely gutted – heartbroken – but whatever I am feeling I am sure the others are feeling it too, especially Alistair. Truth be told, this was his baby and a big part of me feels that I have let him down.

After the decision had been made, we sat around in the tent and tried to lift our spirits. We smoked one of Matt’s ‘victory’ cigars and drank Alistair’s Birthday whisky.

Mark and I then returned to our tent, ate gnocchi and ASDA’s Soft Pear Drops (my Dad’s recommendation). Suddenly life didn’t seem so bad!

Expedition - Day Six

Start: 1115
Weather: Cloudy and cool.

Another late start today, however today we were repairing the pulks not lying in our sleeping bags! The pulks just aren’t designed to be pulled over this rough terrain and as a result they are taking a proper beating. There are huge cracks appearing in everyone’s bases, except mine :)

I felt really good today and the terrain was fairly flat. We were making good progress (2km in 40 mins) until…

… we came to an ice-canyon with a huge river running through it.

With no obvious way across we headed up stream. The terrain soon got very difficult, so Alistair and I went on a recce. Meanwhile Iain battered his pulk Basil Fawlty style, Mark phoned his Bro and Matt tried (and failed) to get a chopper.

There was no way across the river, so we headed around it!? This took us miles off of our bearing for our first waypoint, so we’re going to miss it out and go straight to the second.

It was a huge relief when we decided to set up camp – not only because I was knackered, but because it was Sunday! Clean boxers, wet wipes, bit of talc and Gnocchi. Now I’m a happy bunny :)

Camp: N 67° 2’ 57·6” W 49° 19’ 35·4”
Alt: 1062 m
Distance: 13·30 km
Finish: 1846

Expedition - Day Five

Start: 1000
Weather: Sunny with a cold wind.

After the coldest night so far, we found it difficult to get up early.

Today came in three parts. The first was very straightforward. The second was difficult. The third was fairly flat (but not as flat as Alistair and Iain has promised), but crevassed. On the flat part, we found a load of industrial rubbish dumped (maybe by VW?) – how disappointing.

Towards the end of the day I was really feeling the pace, so we set up camp in order to recharge our batteries.

Camp: N 67° 7’ 1·8” W 49° 31’ 1·8”
Alt: 990 m
Distance: 10·80 km
Finish: 1720

Expedition - Day Four

Start: 0915
Weather: Scorchio!

Woke up late this morning – I am aching all over! I feel like an old man. Our breakfast of custard porridge with fruit pastilles lifted my spirits tho :)

Things soon changed, once we were on our way. After repacking last night, my pulk had become very unstable and kept wobbling over every few metres (this was stomping on my last nerves!). As a result, lots of time was wasted as I sorted the mess. Not that it made much difference to the group’s progress – the crevasses saw to that!

By midday we had had enough – the crevasses were too wide, the ups were too strenuous (with 100kg of wobbly pulks around my waist), the downs too steep and the flat bits did not exist. So we decided to leave our pulks and do a bit of a recce.

Initially the ground did not change, but after a kilometre or so the ground improved – as did our moods. Our hearts sank a while later when we came to even more trickier ground. It was at this point that we decided to split…

Alistair and Iain carried along what looks like the remains of the ice-road, whilst Matt Mark and myself went to move the pulks to a campsite we had seen en-route (which, incidentally, Matt reckoned could double up as a landing site for a helicopter – should we need one!)

By the time we had moved the pulks, set up camp and hoisted the Union Jack – Alistair and Iain arrived back…

The news was good (hooray!). After six more kilometres of the tricky stuff, the ground got better. After a quick conflab, we decided to press on :)

Camp: N 67° 8’ 55·2” W 49° 45’ 10·5”
Alt: 829 m
Distance: 1·20 km (+10 km recce)
Finish: 1720

Expedition - Day Three

Start: 0915
Weather: Cloudy.

We followed the ice-road for the first part of the morning, which made the terrain more passable. There were the odd tricky bits, but nothing compared to the previous day’s challenges.

After midday I was starting to struggle with the pace – my pulk is just too heavy – so I brought out my iShuffle and I soon picked up the pace :)

Just as things seemed to have flattened out, we hit another area of crevasses and rivers. It was at this point that disaster struck…

Iain was negotiating a tricky part when his pulk swung of the ridge and dragged him into a glacial pool. We then had no choice, but to set up camp in order to ensure he did not develop hypothermia.

In some ways this was a blessing in disguise. Due to all the river crossings, lots of our food got soaked, despite being in 3, 4 or even 5 plastic bags. I think we’ll be alright tho – I have not been able to eat all of my daily rations, so the spares will make up for any losses.

So after repacking, we got into the tent for an excellent meal of couscous and beanfeast – just as the clouds burst.

Camp: N 67° 8’ 33·0” W 49° 46’ 27·0”
Alt: 818 m
Distance: 5·90 km
Finish: 1430