Arriving in the Outback

An early morning call alerts me to the stop at Marla to watch the sun rise over the Outback. I clamber off the train and set foot on the rust coloured sand for the first time in temperatures somewhat cooler than I was expecting! We huddle together to witness an unforgettable Outback sunrise and munch on bacon and egg sliders. 

Back on the train, brunch is served on the train and soon we are crossing the state border and into the Northern Territory. North of Kulgera is the Iron Man sculpture to commemorate the millionth track sleeper and the workers who laid them and built the line during the 1970s. As the train rumbles over the Finke River bridge, it is roughly as close as the railway gets to Uluru. The train continues northwards across this barren landscape with the odd sign of life being a welcome distraction from the otherwise stoney desert.

The approach to Alice is unmistakable. Ahead lie the tall MacDonnell Ranges, and the train heads for a gap so narrow that there is room only for the railway, the Todd River and a two-lane road. From a distance it looks as though a giant angle-grinder has been taken to the mountains. 

Alice Springs serves as the gateway to Central Australia's most famous landscapes. For some of us, Alice is the end of the line. Others stop long enough for tours of the town, variously visiting the Flying Doctor Service Museum, Anzac Hill, the Women Pioneers’ hall of fame, a reptile centre and the Telegraph Station.

Me? I find my hostel, dump my luggage and wander around the town. Alice would not win a beauty contest, but it could possibly be the CCTV Capital of the World! On this first encounter, I am beginning to witness first hand the complexities of Aboriginal Australia and the present-day challenges. I also visit the stunning gallery of Papunya Tula Artists, which showcases magnificent artworks from the Western Desert communities.

The Ghan

The legendary Ghan, whose name supposedly honours the pioneering Afghan camel drivers who arrived in Australia in the late nineteenth century with animals imported from India, is one of the World’s greatest railway journeys. With thirty eight carriages and stretching a kilometre in length, this hotel on wheels runs through the heart of the country. The train is hauled by two locomotives and three power vans. The kilometre long train contains four kitchens, five restaurants and five bars. Australia’s Red Centre is one of the most charismatic wildernesses in the world, and The Ghan is unquestionably the most comfortable way to see it. 

My journey begins at Adelaide station, a few kilometres from the city centre, and the train is soon bowling across the farming country of the Adelaide Plains, passing the turbines of Snowtown Wind Farm along the Hummock and Barunga ranges. To the north the Flinders Ranges comes into view. By Crystal Brook, sheep have been added to wheat. Unlovely Port Pirie is the centre of South Australia’s heavy industry with colossal silver, lead and zinc smelters dominating the landscape. The estuary-like Spencer Gulf is within view for much of the way to Port Augusta, gateway to the outback and its vital supply centre. This was the southern terminus of the original narrow-gauge Ghan service to Alice Springs.

Darkness descends as the train winds through sand hills and scrub forest, so I retire to my cabin to be rocked to sleep by the locomotion of the train...

In retrospect...

"The whole object of travel is not to set foot on foreign land; it is at last to set foot on one's own country as foreign land."

G.K. Chesterton

Couldn't have put it any better myself :)

My First McDonalds :)

So the day of departure has arrived. Our grand plans of visiting the Prado or El Rastro before leaving have gone out of the window. We’re tired and want to go home. It’s been a fun filled, but tiring five weeks.

After waiting six hours for our flight (!) we had to wait a further one and a half because of two passengers having to be thrown off the plane by the Spanish police!

Clure (Col’s sister) met us at the airport, but Colin drove us home. After being in the country for only 45 mins Colin got caught speeding!

After having my first McDonalds of the trip, I drove back to Kendal. I’ll unpack tomorrow Zzzzzz

El Valle de los Caídos

This morning we’re off to El Escorial to try to find El Valle de los Caídos (where Franco is buried). The journey turned into a bit of a farce. In Madrid we were told the buses were fairly regular, however we arrived at 11:30 only to be told the next bus to El Valle de los Caídos is at 15:15. So we got some food and headed to the park…

15:15 took ages to arrive, but when it eventually did we headed into the hills… The first glimpses of the Holy Cross were magnificent. The whole place was very atmospheric. Even more so when a huge thunderstorm arrived! It felt a little creepy walking along the crypt (262m long carved out of the rock), but better than being out in the thunderstorm :)

After photographing the monument from every conceivable angle we caught the bus back to Madrid and went to the Reina Sofía. What a quality place! The place was full of Picassos, work by Salvador Dali and an exhibition of photos by Elliot Ergwitt (my favourite).

After this we headed for food and then bed.

Inter-Rail Ticket Expires

After a poor breakfast of bread and butter, we caught the train to Cuenca (with 1 min to spare!).

We really wanted to see the ‘Casas Colgadas’ (hanging houses), but we felt a bit jipped once we got there. The houses do not hang – the balconies do, so what?

After wandering around the town (a World Heritage Site), we hopped on the train back to Madrid to find the geographical centre of Spain.

Colin wasn’t feeling too good, so we cooked (for only the second time in five weeks!) and had an early night.

Madrid

Awoke to a thud of fresh washing on my bed – God bless Mags :)

After grabbing breakfast and a surprisingly non-teary goodbye, we once more checked in for a trip on the AVE (Alta Velocidad Española) for our trip to Madrid…

Having sorted our accommodation from Mags’, we spent the rest of the day just bimbling around Madrid.

Life’s a beach

Our last day with Javier and Mags, so we’re heading off to the beach!

When we returned we all went for cocktails near the Giralda. It was such a funny evening – José only knew the odd word of English and my Spanish was of a similar standard, but we had such a good laugh!

It would have been nice to finish the holiday here. I have had such a wonderful time in Seville. Everyone we have met has made us so welcome :)

I hope that I see Mags and Javier again sometime soon…

The Room of Naked People

Continuing our tour of typical Spain, we set off to find a village that Javier’s (Mags’ boyfriend) Dad “used to f*#king own”!

Aracena (meaning expensive meal) is a quaint little village – all the houses are the traditional white (Pueblo Blancos). We wandered around the village and then grabbed a bite to eat.

After food, ‘Javier’s Tours’ took us down into the caves where King Solomon’s Mines was filmed. The caves are full of lots of weird and wonderful sights, including Sala de los Desnudos (The Room of Naked People – see the picture). I wonder how it got it’s name?!? :)

Next stop on the tour was Italica, where there is an extensive collection of Roman remains, including a 25 000 seater amphitheatre.

Final stop of the day was the bar for a few drinks and an English lesson for Patra (Mags’ Sister). She was taught the noun Minger and the verb to ming. Very useful word – until she went home and said “Goodnight Minger” to Mags – d’oh!

Quack Quack Orange

After being so lazy yesterday, we were up and out early. First stop was the police station – it wasn’t me! Colin used to live in Spain and had to sort an old issue – sounds dodgy to me, so I didn’t pry.

Whilst Colin was at the police station, Mags and I wandered around her old uni – a lot prettier than Lancaster :)

Once we met up with Colin again we took a walk through Maria Luisa Park and then on to the Cathedral – the World’s largest gothic structure. Next we climbed the Giralda, but there wasn’t a step in sight! Just ramps all the way to the top – Mags said it was so they could take horses up there – why? I have no idea. The views of Seville were breathtaking, but I’m not too sure the horses would have been that interested.

On our way back we visited the Plaza de España – where the new Star Wars was filmed. No lightsabres tho :(

We met Mags family for the first time tonight. They are all really nice – although I speak no Spanish and only her Dad knows a few phrases of English, so communication is a bit of a problem. Well for me anyway. Colin on the other hand never stops bambling on – he seems to have been adopted as their son :)

The family took us for a meal where we tried virtually everything on the menu! It was a good night, although I was a little frustrated at not being able to join in as freely as I would have liked – I either had to rely on Mags to translate or guess what everyone was saying. I don’t think I did too bad… Mags’ Dad told us a joke that ended “quack quack orange”.

I think I got it :)

One week to go…

Had a lazy day by the pool and in front of the telly :)

Off to Seville…

Another day, another early start and another train – to be honest, all this travelling is getting me down now :(

Unfortunately we couldn’t stop in Cuenca due to all the trains being full, so we are now heading to Seville…

We caught the REX from Valencia to Madrid, where we switched trains onto the AVE to Seville. Checking in to the AVE was like checking in for a plane. The AVE is supposed to travel at 300km/h – it didn’t feel that fast, probably because it was soooooo comfy :)

Mags met us at the station – it was 18:30 and 41°C – this is going to be a hot one! We finished the day with tapas and drinks.

Sweatin’ cobs

When we arrived in Valencia, it was a steaming 36°C so we took refuge in a local café. There we met a very friendly old man and drank a Horchata (an almond milkshake) – v. nice! From there Colin sorted the accommodation – well his Spanish is better then mine :)

As it cooled, we wandered along the course of the old river, which is now full of gardens. We also explored the Miguelete, which (allegedly) houses the Holy Grail – it was basically a small bronze cup.

Sightseeing over, we stopped for an original Valencian Paella. Colin says he would like to live here, but I don’t see the attraction – it’s too damm hot!

Barcelona!

First stop this morning was Castell de Montjuic - the views could have been spectacular, but it was too damm hazey.

We weren't that impressed with the Olympic Stadium, but our next stop blew us away...

The Nou Camp stadium was truly amazing - I'd love to come back here when there is a game on.

Next to La Rambla - the main street of Barça - for a real catalan hot choc ("so thick that you can stand your spoon in it"), unfortunately the place was closed (it's a religious holiday). Still it's another great reason to come back here!

La Sagrada Familia - a cathedral designed by Gaudi - was the next stop on our tour. Although it's not finished, it is stunning and well worth the climb up the towers - even tho the bridge between them was a bit airy! Inspired by Gaudi's cathedral, we went to find his park, but then...

It pissed it down :(

So we raced back to the YH to dry off, after which we went and ate some lobster. I really loved Barcelona and would love to stay here a little longer, but we've a train to catch!

I'll come back another day...

Goodbyeeeee

Got up later than we planned, but we still managed to catch the 10:30 bus to La Tour de Carol (which for some strange reason cost twice as much as it did on the way in!?) The bus got us to the train with minutes to spare – so it was a rushed goodbye to Dave and Doug.

We arrived in Barcelona at 16:30 and booked into the YH on La Rambla. Did some domestic duties – washing, changed traveller’s cheques,…

Things only seemed to be getting going on La Rambla at 1am, but we were knackered so we headed to bed and to our surprise we were the first in our dorm!

Lac Nou(de)!?

After a bit of a lie in, we opted for a day in the hills. Our route took us to Lac Nou, which the guide described as ‘never very cold’ (lying buggers!). It was hard work slogging up the mountain, but the scenery was well worth it and the swim in the lake was very cold, but also refreshing – just what we needed. Although the two naked Spaniards were not what we needed! On the way down Colin got lost and when we pointed this out to him, he stormed off and sulked.

That evening we had our last meal with Dave and Doug as tomorrow we part company – we head to Barcelona and they head to Paris.

No offence to Colin, but I do think having a bigger group made the trip more enjoyable – cheers lads!

Happy Birthday Mummy!

Got no sleep last night, but after 16 hours of travelling we finally made it to Andorra. The drive through the Pyrénées was amazing and it’s cheap here - £20 for 5 litres of Whisky!

Got lucky with the accommodation again - €9 per night, although all four of us are in the same room!

Had a lazy day due to the lack of sleep last night - drunk lots of Hoegaarden and went to bed…

Nah, I’m just Avignon…

With two weeks to go we hopped on the train to Avignon, where Dave, much to everyone’s annoyance persisted in cracking the same wanky joke over and over again! Here’s an example:

Dave: “The bridge in Avignon is now finished.”

Us: no reply

Dave: “S’not really – I’m just Avignon”

Thank God there isn’t much time left with them!

Anyhow, we went to the unfinished bridge (how bizarre!?). After eating two crêpes, we caught the train out of town to Lyon…

Found a nice little restaurant where I was the only one brave enough to try snail (not bad) and tripe (not good). Finally, we caught the night train to Toulouse - €1,50 for a seat. Hope I get some sleep!

Complet!

Up early and on the train to Marseille!

The train to Marseille was horribly overcrowded, but luckily we got on early enough to get a seat. By now we are well practiced when arriving in a new place. Toilet (usually Dave having a number 2), tourist info (for a map) and accomodation (which all too often has been easy!). Only not this time...

Everywhere was 'complet', so we ended up staying in a right hole AND I'm having to share a double bed with Doug :(

After dumping our bags and filling our bellies, we took a boat to Chateau d'If. This is the place (so the tour guides tell us) that inspired Alexander Dumas to write the Count of Monte Christo. A lovely little place :)

We were all so knackered that in the evening we just went for some Morrocan food (there's a big North African influence here) and then went to bed.

Happy Birthday Dave!

Since the Nice YH is so nice (no pun intended!) we're stopping here another night, but first we're off to Cannes. The whistle-stop tour started with a trip to the Palais de Festival - where the film festival takes place. Next we got attacked by a very polite french boy!?

After grabbing a quick sandwich - where Doug used his GCSE French to perfection "Je m'appelle Jambon et Fromage Sandwich S.V.P." - we headed to the beach...

The sun was hot, the sea was cool and the girls were naked :)

Finally back to Nice for food, beer and a bit of Italian singing!?