Back on the road...

As I stand, ankle deep in warm water, watching the tide roll in, images from the events of the past few days drift through my mind.

First,  the undulating green hills of Middle Earth with the hobbit holes and the wonderful Green Dragon Inn. Next, the magical Redwoods Whakarewarewa Forest, home to some of the best mountain bike trails in the country (and probably the World). The highlight of the week, and maybe the whole road trip, was the adventurous Black Abyss Tour through Ruakuri Cave to see the gruesome glowworms. Quietly drifting along an underground river on a car inner tube, in a wetsuit with my headlamp turned off, under the soft turquoise light from the luminescent bumhole of the glowworm really was something special.

Back on the road, the drive between Waihi and Paeroa (the birthplace of L&P), through the Karangahake Gorge is one of the best pieces of tarmac of my road trip. All of which brings me to the justifiably famous Hot Water Beach, where I take my spade, dig a hole to produce my very own spa pool. I dunk my feet in the warm water and watch the tide roll in...

What is the best way to recover from a 85.8km hike?

My friend, Alistair, convinced me that a caving trip would be the best way to soothe my aching knees.

Simpson Pot is a pull-through trip into the West Kingsdale System of caves.  The trip consisted of short wet pitches, a duck through Blasted Hole and a series of crawls before popping out at the Valley Entrance - conveniently, right by the car :)

The full story of the trip is here.

Knuckle Sandwich Award

With heavy rain all night and more rain predicted for the next few days, it was time to get the ropes out of the cave!

Tom and Dick went early to clear the bags from the bottom of Aldo's. Alistair, Paul and I joined the group later to help them carry the tackle bags (full of wet rope!) through the Meanders. Every shaft climbed meant something was gained, but also one or two additional tackle bags which our arms were becoming powerless to lift.

Finally we carried all the gear back to the cars - a mere 40 min walk!

The day finished with the SWCC BBQ (the wettest I have ever been to!) and their Award Ceremony (I won one - yay!!).

Cuves de Sassenage

I woke up and I was hurting - not aching - hurting! I felt like I had been beaten up. I was hurting in places I'd forgotten I'd had!

As a result, a lazy day was planned...

This involved a bit of shopping, collecting a new battery for Nicola and visiting the Caves of Sassenage - the touristy showcave where all the water from the Berger comes to the surface. It was a fitting way to follow our trip to the bottom of the Berger.

Here Comes the Sun

After patching up my gashed finger, we arrived at Camp I - I was knackered. I got out of my wet gear and straight into the tent. I had a semi-conscience conversation with Bridgette and then Alistair, before drifting off...

After 2 hours of sleep we got up, back into our wet gear and began to ram food down our necks (cold rice pudding - yum!).

By 11:30 we were off again. The momentary tension felt at the start ceased as I quickly got into the rhythm. We had reached the bottom of Aldo's at 14:24, it was here that Tom and Dick left Alistair and I to prevent a traffic jam on the ropes!

It was not until 15:45 that Alistair and I pulled ourselves out of the chasm, unshaven, bloodied, sweaty, with dark rings around our eyes and filthy. We have had a great time :)

A little accident...

We finally arrived back at Camp II having de-rigged the lower section of the cave. We left two of the tackle bags full of gear and picked up two of our own!

One by one the familiar landmarks came back in sight: Topographer's Cascade, Claudine's Cascade, Abelle's Cascade - through the Canals (very tricky with heavy tackle bags!). Continuing up the Vestiere Pitch, Calcite Slopes, Enormous Cascade and finally up the Balcony Pitch. It was here that I had a little accident...

The only way is up...

We have finally made it!

From Hurricane it is mostly walking and scrambling that leads past the -1000m inlet. Shortly afterwards, the stream appears to drop down a short pitch, a climb up on the left leads to a dry oxbow rejoining the stream at the 'Pseudo Syphon'. At -1177m, this is the accepted bottom of the cave, as trying to pass the syphon in dry gear is NOT an option!!

So after posing for a few photos (including one with the 'Pants of Power'!?) we started the long slog out...

Just climbing Hurricane and Little Monkey zapped my energy. I then collected the bag of wet rope from these pitches to haul to Camp II, whilst the others de-rigged the remaining pitches.

This return journey from the bowels of the Earth was slowly becoming a grim struggle, and it's trials were increased by the loads we had to carry, made heavier at each steep drop by the recovery of the rope and our gear, as well as by growing sleepiness and exhaustion.

Into the Abyss

Having read One Thousand Metres Down, Claudine's Cascade was one of the pitches I was looking forward to. The original pipe from the 1954 expedition was still in place. It was fun balancing along it :)

We then descended Topographer's Cascade into the Grand Canyon. Route finding in this huge hall proved tricky, although once we found the dirty handline we were able to find our way to Camp II. En route we met various members of the SWCC on their way to the surface.

After another short break at Camp II, we descended into the final third of the cave. This part of the cave was even more intimidating. At the final pitch (Hurricane - my favourite!) my headlamp failed to pierce the black abyss of mist and foam. Abseiling down the final and longest pitch took us to a bizarre sandy hall, then we set off in search of the sump...

Camp I and beyond...

After descending Aldo's and then heading down the Great Hall, Alistair and I were caught by Tom and Dick - just before we reached Camp I. Upon our arrival at Camp I we radioed our support team on the surface.

30 mins later, we were fed and heading off again. The stunning Hall of the Thirteen was our next waypoint. Here we tried to take as many photos as possible, whilst keeping up with each other!

Going Down!

Alistair and I entered the Gouffre Berger (Tom and Dick, the more experienced cavers, gave us an hour head start!). We descended the pitches to the bottom of Cairn Hall and headed into the Meanders. These proved very tricky when carrying a full sack!

By 13:08 we had reached the bottom of Gontard's and collected the food bag for Camp I.

The Big Adventure

With the night duty over and the radio fading, we said "bon voyage" to the last few groups making their way to the bottom.

Finally it was our turn to enter the cave. We are the last group going to the bottom - our mission was to get to the bottom and on our way out de-rig all the pitches below Camp II.

I had a last feel inside my pockets to see if everything I needed was there. I picked up my shiny red tackle bag, took a final affectionate farewell of my friends, and at 12:22pm I entered the chasm with Alistair; the Big Adventure had begun...

A Night with Nicola

Lying half asleep in my tent, I heard the sound of a group saying their last goodbyes before they entered the cave.

News has reached us that bad weather is on the way, so we have altered our plans. Today will now be a rest day for Alistair and I. Tom, Dick and Sharon are making a short trip to the bottom of Gontard's Pitch, where they will leave a food dump for the descent and re-rig the pitch.

So our day was filled with answering the radio, making cups of tea for resurfacing cavers, chopping wood, charging batteries, drying gear, reading, eating,... and Alistair even took the time to put a bolt into a boulder!?

I guess this is what expeditions are like - now we are in the quiet before the storm!

That evening we ate a tonne of pasta. I then retreated to the radio tent - I have a night duty with Nicola :)

My Berger Cherry

Day 2 of lugging our gear in to the entrance camp started lazily :)

After lunch we headed to the Gorges de la Bourne - driving along it was quite scary, especially when a rock (or should that be boulder!?) landed between our cars. It is a spectacular place.

We arrived at the entrance camp, sorted our gear (incl. our food dump) and then headed into the cave...

It was a short trip. Tom, Alistiar and I headed down the McCairn Entrance to Cairn Hall, then back out Cairn Pitch - Holiday Slides - Ruiz - Entrance Pitch and out.

That's my head now sorted :)

After getting out of my sweaty gear, we had a BBQ and then watched a spooky movie (Pan's Labrynth).

The expedition begins...

I was awoken by a huge clap of thunder this morning. I lay in bed for a few hours watching the rain pour down before it was time to get up. Once it had stopped, we spent the rest of the morning packing up all our caving gear and then after some lunch we carried it to the entrance of the cave.

The walk in took about 40 mins. The entrance is in the middle of nowhere! How did they ever find this cave!!?

We pitched a tent and then left all our gear till tomorrow...

Les Jailleux

My ten hour car journey flew by as I chuckled at funny place names and sang "Pass de Duchy by de left handside" every car from Holland that I overtook :)

We are staying at Paul's house (an old friend of Dick), which is this beautiful old farmhouse. My arrival means that three of our team are here - Tom arrives tomorrow.

As we swapped stories and caught up with each other's news, I was surprised to discover that the cave was virtually rigged. York Uni, who were supposed to have the cave before us, didn't show - apparently they had booked the wrong year!?! So the SWCC got in a few days earlier and got busy!

To help the SWCC, Dick and Alistair had taken the boat and a toilet seat (!?) to Camp I via Paul's alternative entrance.

TOMorrow plans can be made regarding when and how we will prepare for the major descent.

Until then I guess we should have some fun...

BIZARRE FACT OF THE DAY:
I spent more on road tolls than petrol!!?

Titan B.E.S.T.

The SWCC kindly invited us along to meet and greet them all before we all meet up in France to explore the Gouffre Berger, Vercors (deepest in the Alps). The venue was the Peak Cavern (a.k.a. The Devil's Arse) and our expert guides for this journey were Henry and Clive. They guided us around the following route:

James Hall's Over Engine Mine Shaft - Leviathan - Workshop - Speedwell Streamway - Wirlpool - The Bung - Block Hall - Leviathan - Coral Aven - Stemple Highway - Boulder Choke - Far Sump Inlet - Titan Shaft

James Hall's Over Engine Mine Shaft is an old lead mine leading down into the Peak/Speedwell system. This section of cave is like being on the set of an Indiana Jones movie!

We abseiled down the entrance shaft, a 50m freehang off a single iron bar cemented into the entrance. This dropped us into the first level where you walk, climb and crawl along the mined out vein.

Below this we dropped down the narrow Bitch Pitch and into a natural cave, where the remains of an old ore cart can be seen with all the wood rotted away.

Two further pitches took us down into a horizontal cave where we explored the canals that were dug out to move the goods to the surface.

Next we headed off to find Titan. Henry led us through muddy crawls, muddy streamways, down muddy ladders, through heavy iron gates, over muddy traverses, though a muddy sump and regularly wallowing in muddy water and/or watery mud.

We wriggled through the last climb that took us to the bottom of Titan Shaft, where a rope disappears into blackness above your head. I cannot describe how impressive this place is. So below is a picture of the shaft from above...


and next is a picture of the shaft from below...


Alistair and I sat and watched as Henry climbed the rope, his light gradually fading until he had completely disappeared from sight! Surely the top cannot be that far away!?

It was.

The 170 metre rope seemed to be double that! But what a way to finish such an exciting and tiring trip.

Thanks to the SWCC (especially Bridget, Henry and Clive) for organising an absolutely cracking trip. Bring on the Berger... :)