Drive to Yulara

A ribbon of tarmac takes me back to the Lasseter Highway, which in turn will take me to the red heart of Australia. Much of the way it is fairly standard central Australian scenery with red sand, scrub and spinifex to the horizon until I reach Mount Conner.

Mount Conner pokes 350m out of the desert and is easily mistaken for Uluru. I stop for a quick peek from the lookout and pay a quick visit to the salt pan across the road.

The highlight of the journey tho, is the first sighting of Uluru as I approach Yulara. Sometimes these world-famous sights end up being a let-down when you actually see them. Then there's Uluru: nothing can truly prepare you for the immensity, grandeur, changing colour of the "Rock". It really is a sight that will sear itself into your mind forever.

I spend a few hours at the Uluru car sunset viewing area waiting patiently to take the quintessential Uluru photo. As the sun sinks behind me, the rock transforms from pinkish hues to a fluorescent orange and deep shades of red. The sky also displays a varied palette of colours, with the rock surrounded by delicate baby blues and bright pinks.

I then head to Yulara, the service village for the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, which has turned one of the World's least hospitable regions into a comfortable place to stay for the night.

Distance: 330.7km

Driving to Kings Creek Station

Leaving the fenced off, CCTV covered communities of Alice Springs, I begin to clock up long desert kilometres along the Stuart Highway towards Australia’s most famous icon. About 140 km south of Alice, the Earnest Giles Road heads off to the west of the the sealed highway.

Eleven kilometres west of the Stuart Highway, a gravel track leads 5km off Ernest Giles Road to a cluster of twelve small craters, known as the Henbury Meteorite Craters. They were formed after a meteor fell to Earth 4700 years ago. The largest of the craters is 180m wide and 15m deep and is surrounded by some beautiful country.

I re-join the Earnest Giles Road to drive across an ancient landscape of spinifex and swirling skeins of red dust through the Aboriginal Australian-owned Angas Downs Indigenous Protected Area. The orange sand of the Earnest Giles Road changes to the tarmac of the Luritja Road as I enter the Watarrka National Park, home to the yawning chasm of Kings Canyon.

Whilst checking in to the Kings Creek Station, Janet asks about my journey and her face drops... "In that?!" as she points at Bernard. Janet then describes potholes the size of the Henbury Meteorite Craters. I describe the complete opposite of this; where I could power-slide through the smooth sandy corners. Janet then shrugs and concludes that the Earnest Giles Road must have been recently graded. Lucky break I guess ;-)

Distance: 302.9km

West MacDonnell Ranges

An early morning saunter across Alice Springs to collect my new rental car for the next part of my trip. Bernard and I become acquainted on the short drive out of Alice Springs to Simpsons Gap, located in the West MacDonnell National Park. Simpsons Gap is a stunning gorge carved out of the West MacDonnell Ranges by Roe Creek. 

Next stop along Namatjira Drive is Ellery Creek Big Hole, a large permanent picturesque waterhole. The Ochre Pits line a dry creek bed further west and were the source of pigment for Aboriginal people. The various coloured ochres - mainly yellow, white and red-brown - are weathered limestone, with iron-oxide creating the colours.

The majestic Ormiston Gorge is 25 km beyond the Ochre Pits. It is the most impressive chasm in the West MacDonnells. I spend time lazing by the waterhole, shaded with ghost gums, waiting to see the abundance of wildlife promised in the guidebooks. 

I guess the mid-afternoon sun was too much for the locals critters, so I abandon my stakeout and begin the 135 km return journey eastwards along the Namatjira Drive to Alice Springs.

Distance: 302.4km

Goodbye Harrison

The day starts early with a short detour to the crumbling Cape Dombey Obelisk. The iconic pyramid-like, red-white-striped lookout has been warning ships of Robe’s rocky reefs since 1855. The town’s 12-metre icon was originally white, but was painted in red bands after complaints it was too hard to see. The rocky limestone ledge it sits on has been dramatically eroded by wild seas and is expected to soon crumble into the ocean.

Tired and weary from too many days on the road, I have a hearty breakfast and then jump back on the Southern Ports Highway to weave through vineyards and forests.

The spectacular Coorong National Park, separated from the sea by chunky dunes, is a fertile lagoon landscape curving along the coast for 145km from Kingston SE to Lake Alexandrina. I leave the Princes Highway, where possible, to join the Old Coorong Road and explore the complex series of milky white lakes and salt pans. 

After a brief drive along the Southern Ocean Drive, I cut inland to explore the Barossa Valley. I am greeted by dark clouds and a short while later the heavens opened. I therefore continue to drive to Adelaide, where, tired and weary, I return Harrison to enable the start of the next leg of my journey...

Distance: 415.8km

Same, but different!

I leave Port Campbell on the Great Ocean Road to find that London Bridge has indeed fallen down. It was once a double-arched rock platform linked to the mainland, but in January 1990 the bridge collapsed leaving two terrified tourists stranded on the World's newest island. It remains a spectacular sight and has since been renamed as the London Arch.

Warrnambool marks the western end of the Great Ocean Road and the start of the Princes Highway, which is a more scenic and leisurely route than the main highways between these major cities. The highway follows the coastline for most of its length through logging and farming communities. En route I see lots of familiar names (Heywood, Dartmoor and Glencoe) and many unfamiliar sights.

Kingston is where I join the rural Southern Ports Highway to the cherubic little fishing port of Robe where I decide to park up for the night. Built in 1859, the Caledonian Inn is a clear winner. After checking in, I wander to the eastern outskirts of town to the Robe Town Brewery. The brewery uses old-fangled methods to produce a wide range of interesting beers. After sampling every beer on offer, I return to the historic inn for some classy pub grub and some much needed rest.

Distance: 390.4km

Twelve Apostles

Another morning begins with a trip to another lighthouse. The drive along a beautifully rugged and historically treacherous coastline takes me to Cape Otway Lighthouse, the oldest surviving lighthouse on mainland Australia.

Further along the Great Ocean Road is the picturesque Loch Ard Gorge, named after the clipper wrecked here in 1878. It is home to a smooth, pearlescent bay and an inlet of clear, blue water, which is flanked by two yellow-washed cliff faces topped with tufts of vibrant greenery.

With the masses swarming over the viewing platform for the most iconic sight and the endpoint of the Great Ocean Road, I decide to hunt for accommodation in Port Campbell first. The Port Campbell Hostel ticks everything on my wishlist. Clean rooms; check. Pizzas; check. It's own brewery; check.

Jutting out from the ocean in spectacular fashion, the Twelve Apostles (originally called the Sow and Piglets, which is the name of the aforementioned brewery) are the enduring image of Great Ocean Road. There are not twelve stacks and, as far as I can tell, there never have been. Honestly, I cannot tell how many there are, but that is not the reason that I am here. With the sun approaching the horizon, the tour buses have gone and the rich hues of red are blending with oranges, purples and crimsons to fill the sky. The brilliancy of the colours, fastens my gaze upon the west as the sun sinks beyond the Seven Apostles (OK I did count!).

Distance: 158.1km

Yaugher Trails

After peeling myself from my frozen bed, I grab a wholesome breakfast and a trail map from the Forrest General Store and then pop next door to get fitted for my mountain bike.

Just a few minutes north of Forrest, the Yaugher trail head is the starting point out for all the fine cross country trails. The Yaugher Super Loop is the longest trail in Forest and it provides access to the entire Yaugher trail network. It is a mixture of single track and fire trails with a full range of trail features. The start is fairly easy, but soon I learn first hand what is awesome about the Forrest MTB experience!

After a short breather, next up is the Grass Trees trail. Loaded with features the short trail includes log rides, rollovers, step ups, drop offs, big berms and jumps. 

Named after the man who started the Forrest MTB dream is Foxtail, Forrest’s quickest run. This trail takes me from the Yaugher trail head to Tabletop and rejoins the Yaugher Super Loop. Long fast straights and open corners provide a fun flowing ride with well-spaced technical features.

My legs are now feeling heavy, but I choose one final trail. J2 is another long flowing descent trail from the Yaugher trailhead. This trail has plenty of features along the way and once again rejoins the Yaugher Super Loop which returns me to the trail head.

I return to Forrest to clean my bike and myself, refuel with another tasty morsel from the Forrest General Store and head back out in search of some more adventure...

Located 7 km from Forrest is the scenic Lake Elizabeth, famous for its population of platypuses and surreal scenery of dead trees jutting from its glassy waters. I yomp around the circuit searching for the reclusive platypuses and avoiding the poisonous snakes.

Back at the carpark, Harrison and I head to Apollo Bay, where I find a bed for the night and spend an evening in the new tap house of the Great Ocean Road Brewhouse. A fitting reward for all my hard work ;-)

Distance: 53.8km

Up into the Hills

I enjoy breakfast whilst soaking up Aireys' seafaring atmosphere in the Willows Tea House, which is set up within a historic weatherboard cottage a few steps from Split Point Lighthouse. With my belly full and the sensational views etched forever on my mind, I jump in the car and rejoin the Great Ocean Road.

One of the Great Ocean Road's original resort towns, Lorne seems a tad overdeveloped, so I head straight out of town to see the lovely Erskine Falls.

Tucked away in the hinterland of the Otways, the former logging town of Forrest is now home to one of the best mountain biking trails in the state. I find a home for the night (a Union Jack covered caravan called Lizzie) and set off to explore the charms of this archetypal one horse town.

Distance: 79.9km

Great Ocean Road (Trip)

The day starts with a quick trip to see the neighbours in Pin Oak Court, Vermont South - just outside Melbourne. You might know this better as Ramsay Street, Erinsborough. Sadly there is no sign of Kylie, so I get back on the road...

On such a grey and rainy day, I decide to try to eat up some miles. That said, I cannot resist a pitstop in the undisputed capital of the Australian surf industry, Torquay. The perfect starting point seems to be the well-curated Australian National Surfing Museum. I then call in the Rip Curl Surf Factory Outlet to pick up a bargain or seven. I genuinely do not know how supermodels stay thin as trying on all these different outfits makes me very hungry, so I swing by the Blackman's Brewery for a huge pizza and a carry out or three.

On the way out of town, I join the Great Ocean Road and almost immediately take a slight detour to the famous Bells Beach. Part of international surfing folklore, I watch the powerful point break through the rain spattered windscreen of Harrison, before moving on...

Further along the Great Ocean Road is the roadside Great Ocean Road Chocolaterie and Ice Creamery. I purchase some local delicacies (bush-tucker flavoured chocolate) and slurp down a thick gooey hot chocolate.

The final stop of the day is Aireys Pub. With an on-site brewery to compliment its fantastic home-cooked meals, this seems a great place to stop for the night.

Distance: 201.3km

Driving to Melbourne

Another day, another long drive to the stylish and arty city of Melbourne.

Distance: 193.2km

Driving through the Clouds

In contrast to yesterday's active day, today I take the iconic road trip along Alpine Way scenic drive to discover the spectacular mountain views and heritage of southern Kosciuszko National Park. The Alpine Way is steep, narrow and winding between Thredbo and Khancoban, near the Victorian border. Winding through tall mountain forests and past the dramatic western fall of the Main Range, snow-capped peaks can be seen.

As my wheels roll into Mansfield, the gateway to Victoria's largest snowfields at Mount Buller, my eyes are feeling heavy, so I find a room for the night in a local country hotel. I then head out for some food and locally-brewed beers.

Distance: 443.5km

Into the Snowy Mountains

Living the trucker life on the long drive to Jindabyne, the closest town to Mount Kosciuszko for tomorrow's adventure...

Distance: 234.2km

Back in Time

I wake up to discover the delights of Jervis Bay are on my doorstep. This large, sheltered bay combines snow-white sand, crystalline waters and playful dolphins. So I spend the morning exploring the White Sands Walk on the shores of Jervis Bay. From Greenfield Beach I head south passing the white sands and clear water of Chinamans Beach. I am treated to incredible water views at various points along the track and caught glimpses of dolphins bobbing by... From Chinamans Beach, I head through Hyams Beach to reach its famous beach - allegedly the World's whitest beach. I then return to Harrison along Scribbly Gum Track which takes me away from the coastline, through tall coastal forest and woodland, finishing back at Greenfield Beach picnic area.

Driving northwards to Central Tilba, a National Trust village in the shadow of Gulaga (formerly called Mt. Dromedary). The village has remained virtually unchanged since it was a gold-mining boom town. Cafes and craft shops fill the heritage buildings. At the end of Bate Street is the Dromedary Hotel, a gorgeous old country pub dating from 1895. It is here that I finish the day enjoying their own Drom Ale and scoffing some tasty pub grub.

Distance: 204.1km

Back to the Coast

After checking the weather reports over breakfast, my plan of visiting the Figure Eight Pools in Sydney's Royal National Park near Burning Palms Beach is a non-starter. Located on a dangerous rock shelf, the tides and winds result in an extreme risk rating for today. This does not come as a surprise as I have been watching the risk rating steadily climb over the past few days, so I have a back up plan…

On the outskirts of Penrith, the Rock Lookout has breathtaking views of the Nepean Gorge in the historic and picturesque Mulgoa Valley. Next, I drive to the photogenic Cathedral Rocks at the southern end of Jones Beach. A little bit of rockhopping enable me to get a great view of the the ancient volcanic lava flows.

I know many candidates for the biggest blowhole in the World, but apparently Kiama's famous Blowhole is officially the largest in the world! Once I have perfected my timing to take a crowd-pleasing photo of this natural phenomenon, I head to Jervis Bay for the night.

Distance: 234.2km

Grand Canyon Track

This spectacular 5km circuit plunges from Evans Lookout into the valley below. The well-shaded track meanders through luscious native vegetation of ferns and golden wattles, and remains close to Greaves Creek before looping back to the road. En-route I pick up a French companion who is here to do a veterinary placement in Koala Hospital in Port Macquarie!

After dropping the Frenchy at the train station, I make my way to the photogenic Empress Falls. Buried deep in the Valley of the Waters, the creek comes out of the slot in the cliff and tumbles down a series of cliffs to a sandy pool. I retrace my steps back to the carpark and head to Penrith for a beer at the friendly Rusty Penny Brewery and the quirky Casey's Brewery.

Distance: 81.7km

Into the Blue Mountains

I wake early, hoping to catch a stunning sunrise at McMahons Point, where there is another spectacular perspective of the Harbour Bridge and the Opera House, but, for once, the Weather Gods are not on my side. So I pack up my camera and tripod and take the road to the Blue Mountains…

Whilst most travellers take the well-trodden Great Western Highway, it is the Bells Line of Road to the north, linking Richmond to Lithgow that I choose. This pretty little stretch of road through the Blue Mountains is the road-less-travelled and offers bountiful views as quaint farmhouses emerge. It gets more and more difficult to resist pulling over, leaning over the fence of a roadside orchard and pinching a shiny new Pink Lady. Instead, I stop at the Bilpin Cider Co. who use local Pink Lady and Granny Smith apples to make their tasty cider.

Having spent most of the day cooped up in the car, I stretch my legs southeast of Leura to wander along the triangular outcrop of rock known as Sublime Point. I enjoy the warm sun and peaceful solitude as the path narrows to a dramatic lookout with sheer cliffs on each side. In stark contrast, Echo Point’s clifftop viewing platform draws numerous serenity-spoiling tourist gaggles, their idling buses farting fumes into the clear mountain air. They are all here to see the Three Sisters. This rocky trio are considered the Blue Mountains most essential sight. I decide to leave and come back closer to sunset to avoid the crowds…

Distance: 236.1km

Hello Sydney!

To clear my head, I grab a bacon and egg butty at the kiosk on Newcastle Beach and mooch along the esplanade. South of the beach is Australia’s oldest ocean bath, the convict-carved Bogey Hole is atmospheric with the surf crashing over its edge. Further along the coast, tucked behind Merewether Beach, is Merewether Aquarium. Strictly speaking not an aquarium, this pedestrian underpass has been charmingly transformed into a pop-art underwater world by a local artist.

After retracing my steps, I hop into Harrison and hit the road to the major metropolis of Sydney. With both a harbour side and a glorious ocean beach, Manly is my gateway to exploring Sydney over the next few days… First though, I stroll to the beach and enjoy the scrappy charms of Manly.

Distance: 212.3km

Ocean Drive

A little weary of driving along the highway, I choose to get off the Pacific Highway and drive along the coast to explore the series of atmospheric little towns and long stretches of unspoilt beaches and lush forests. The road first passes the shallow Lake Cathie and then heads through Laurieton where I grab my breakfast. A short drive southwest is Crowdy Head, a small fishing and surfing town on the edge of a national park. The views of deserted beaches and wilderness from the 1878 lighthouse are extraordinary.

The road wriggles back out to the coast. Old Bar, at the southern head of the Manning River, is a long-time surfing favourite. I then head inland and follow the fertile Manning Valley. Beyond the increasingly urban Forster, I drive through an extravagantly pretty section of the coast that feels deliciously remote. Myall Lakes National Park is a patchwork of lakes, islands, dense rainforests and beaches. I take a sharp left to head to the remarkably undeveloped hamlet of Seal Rocks, which hugs the surf-mecca of Sugarloaf Bay. Further south, the lakes are home to an incredible number and variety of bird life.

As Harrison and I roll sluggishly into the port city of Newcastle, I refresh myself with a few of the 21 eclectic Australian-brewed craft beers that are on tap at the historic Grain Store Craft Beer Cafe.

Distance: 352.5km

Waterfall Way

Billed as New South Wales’ most scenic drive, I drive to Port Macquarie the long way round. The 190km Waterfall Way links a number of beautiful national parks between Coffs Harbour and Armidale, taking me through pristine subtropical rainforest. Sadly, the promise of spectacular waterfalls never materialises due to a lack of water. The horseshoe-shaped Ebor Falls in Guy Fawkes National Park is the only waterfall to put on a show for me.

As I emerge into the Northern Tablelands, I drive though green countryside and wide plains to reach Australia’s highest city. Armidale has a wealth of attractive heritage buildings. You could easily convince me that I am on a stage set for a period drama, I keep expecting a director to yell “cut!”. I carbo-load for the remainder of the drive at the Goldfish Bowl, a worthy pitstop for a pie and fresh juice.

I return to the coast at Port Macquarie and pitstop at the Koala Hospital. I wander around the open-air enclosures to meet the koalas injured or sick as a result of wandering too close to urban areas and then head to the heritage-listed Port Macquarie Backpackers for the night. 

Distance: 449.1km

Byron Bay to Coffs Harbour

Spectacular views are my reward for setting out early on the Cape Byron Walking Track. Ribboning around the headland, the track undulates out to Australia’s most easterly point and a picturesque lighthouse. Along the way, I encounter a couple of bold brush-turkeys, spot migrating whales and even spy a sea turtle. Completing the loop back at Captain Cook Lookout, I hop in Harrison and drive southwards…

After grabbing lunch en route, I arrive in the quaint town of Coffs Harbour and walk out to the eco-treasure of Muttonbird Island. The walk to the top provides sweeping vistas of the harbour and beyond. From this vantage point, I watch the sun dip behind the horizon to bring a lovely day to a close.

Distance: 251.5km