Breakfast is sumptuous. I do not recognise half of the things on the table and am only brave enough to try the friendlier looking options. Well, call me small-minded, but pickled fish bits just do not seem too appealing at 8:00am!
To allow my experimental breakfast to settle, I wander into Kajaani to explore… I find a beautifully ornate wooden church, a castle in the middle of a river and a tar-boat channel with a lock to enable the boats laden with tar barrels to pass Ämmäkoski rapids.
Time to hit the road! First stop, Paltaniemi to see another church. This enchantingly weathered wooden church has some really interesting church paintings. My favourite is above the entrance: a representation of the dangers of life outside of the church’s protection, essentially a vivid scene of hell.
After the let down of yesterday, the time finally arrived… A few minutes after leaving the church Tom-Squared tells me to turn left. I do not see a left turn. I am at the turn when a small gap, barely a car width of amber coloured gravel appears. Honestly, I think twice – then I just go for it! The next three miles are the most exhilarating miles that I have ridden on my motorbike. The highlight is my first crossing of a huge expanse of water by motorbike (OK – it is a really big puddle, but it is BIG!).
I am disappointed to return to the main road after such excitement, but I do need to use gears four, five and six if I am to get to Kuusamo today.
Besides the main road is not that predictable. En-route I find several herds of reindeer on the road. I approach very slowly (as recommended) and I can tell that the animals are beginning to get spooked, so they start to run in the most uncoordinated fashion. I know it is cruel laugh, but I could not help it :)
I continue to head North parallel to the Russian border which lies approximately twenty miles to the east. I am tempted to turn right, but the signs strongly advise against it.
I continue to head North parallel to the Russian border which lies approximately twenty miles to the east. I am tempted to turn right, but the signs strongly advise against it.
The strangest site of the day occurs shortly before my arrival in Kuusamo. I find, completely by chance, a piece of installation art called Hiljainen Kansa by artist and dancer Reijo Kela. What do you make of them?
I roll on into Kuusamo for a quiet night in a sterile business hotel that lines the main route.
Distance: 163.7 miles
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