“Some places are like people: some shine and some don't.”

I am in the car park packing my motorbike and contemplating what the day may have in store for me, when I notice out of the corner of my eye an old man approaching. He begins to talk in a language that I do not understand; despite this we were able to communicate and share a smile. It is things like this that I love.

With four quick flicks of my left foot, I am cruising southwards along the Arctic Highway. I make a quick stop at Husmannsplasen. In 1967 these cottages fell vacant on the death of the last farmer to work there. Time has stood still here with the exhibits being left just as they were.

Tunnels disrupt the marvellous vista on the journey to Fauske with irksome regularity. I race through a tunnel and as soon as daylight hits my visor, the throttle is loosened to take as much of the view in as possible.

Another quick photo opportunity at Fauske, the centre point of the E6, the road I joined at the Finnish-Norwegian border and will leave to the Norwegian-Swedish border. All these stops must be brief though, as I have an appointment with Mother Nature…

At 12:54pm the tide will be coming into the straight that links the open Saltfjord with the inner Skjerstadfjord. This gives me the best opportunity to see one of the world’s strongest maelstroms. Having read about the four hundred million cubic meters of water smashing ships to pieces, I am expecting big things. I stand on the summit of the Saltstraumbrua for forty five minutes watching the small cauldrons threaten to join forces and form one massive whirlpool. Instead my reward for all the effort is nothing more spectacular than the water swirling around my bath plug. I am gutted and freezing!

I do not warm up for the rest of the day; the Arctic wind cuts through my insulated jacket as if it is made of toilet paper. Despite this I still enjoy the mountainous and winding ride along Route 812, which traces the edge of the Saltfjord. I join the Old Arctic Highway shortly before Medby and take a more serene ride through a more rural setting.

Eventually I am forced back onto the new Arctic Highway where I ascend on an undulating course in the slender gap between the snow line and the low-lying clouds. The tree cover is thick and obscures the view of all but the high peaks. Occasional breaks in the trees reveal the powerful Salteva where, upon closer inspection, I see men up to their waists in the strong currents fishing. Now they must be cold!

Shortly after Saltdalen Tourist Centre I take a short excursion towards Sweden to peer into the spectacular Junkersdalsura canyon and sample the old route into the valley. The first stretch of Route 77 is very steep and twists along the edge of canyon. The journey up is fine though as my focus is always on the bit of tarmac in front of me. From a small layby I satisfy my curiosities about the canyon and begin the journey back to the Arctic Highway. Despite the route from 1871 being replaced by the modern Route 77, the route is terrifying. The exposure to the sheer drops on my right make me want to close my eyes... Although this is probably not advisable ;-)

Further down the tree-lined Arctic Highway, a small turning right leads to the centre of the middle of nowhere, Lønsdal. There is quite literally NOTHING going on here. Nothing to see. Nothing to do.

What is more my accommodation for the night has a striking resemblance to the hotel from The Shining. It also looks closed. I walk up to the door and pull, then push. It is closed.

Moments later a car screeches into the car park. The Addams Family get out of the car. Despite still being chilled to the bone, I begin to sweat. A mumbled apology in a thick Russian accent is all I can decipher as my arm is almost yanked from its socket with an overzealous greeting.  We enter the building.  The interior does not feel any less unnerving and then, to top it all off, I am handed the key to Room 237.

Due to a misspent first year at University, I am well aware that Room 237 is where all the freaky stuff happens in the film. I slowly climb the stairs to the second floor. My heart is thumping as I put the key in the door and turn…

Sleep well folks!

Distance: 139.9 miles