The road less travelled

My alarm sounds. I roll over. I have a hangover. Probably the northernmost hangover I have ever had. My stomach is churning – not too bad though, the slow cycle. As the scales fall from my eyes, I look around the room, slowly focus and groan in despair. I have done it again…

My drunken logic dictates that if I pay nearly ten euros a beer, then the glass must come for free. So in my hotel room are eight pint glasses in a variety of sizes and brands. One even has a kebab in it! What a muppet :)

I lie in bed and try to cure my hangover by groaning and breathing heavily. Unsurprisingly this approach has limited results – I might as well try aromatherapy! I stagger down to breakfast with two minutes to spare in the hope that something solid will help. It is midday before I feel ready to sit on my motorbike.

I can see the rain clouds rolling up the fjord towards Tromsø as I pack my motorbike. The clouds deposit their cargo just as I leave the ‘Capital of the North’. I travel the route back to Fagernes through the mist in the pouring rain. I see nothing. Absolutely nothing.

By the time I reach Laksvatn the weather is better, so I choose to leave the heavily used highway for the cosier Route 292, which runs underneath the main route along the edge of the beautiful Balsfjord.

In Nordkjosbotn I refuel my motorbike and myself, before doubling back a little to avoid the industrial Arctic Highway. Route 87 starts in Øvergård and is another attractive alternative to the Arctic Highway, passing through the captivatingly beautiful Tamokdalen.

Towards the end of the route I investigate a minor road to the right, which leads to Målselvfossen. The mighty Målselvfossen, 600 meters long and (only) 25 meters high, proudly declares it was Norway’s national waterfall in 2003! The plunge pool at the base is one of the best salmon fishing spots in this part of Norway, but it’s not all doom and gloom for the fish. Those salmon that escape the fisherman’s hook are helped up the fall by Europe’s longest salmon ladder.

Rejoining the Arctic Highway a short while later takes me across the beautiful Sagelvvatnet. There is a scattering of lakes and memorials (to the 1940 Battle of Narvik) along the route that is taking me to Narvik.

The windy exposure on the 800 meter long Rombaksbru is unsettling, especially when the traffic lights order you to stop at the high point of 40 meters above the fast running Rombakstraumen.

Shortly before arriving in Narvik, I stumble upon the police clearing up the aftermath of a car accident. A timely reminder of how tricky this road can be.

Having been to Narvik before on a snowboarding expedition, I choose to once again stay in Norumgården Bed & Breakfast. For me this speaks volumes about the quality of this little treasure that was once used as the German officer’s mess in WWII and nowadays exudes character. I am off now to take a trip down memory lane…

Distance: 175.2 miles