Abel Tasman Coastal Track

On 18 December 1642, Abel Tasman anchored his two ships near Wainui Bay - he was the first European to visit New Zealand. Over 350 years later, I dock my tiny Japanese vessel at a carpark near Wainui Bay to explore the golden beaches and coastal native bush of the Abel Tasman Coastal Track.

The Gibbs Hill Track heads inland, winding in and out of several little gullies before reaching the shrouded summit of Gibbs Hill. The clouds clear long enough to reveal sparkling seas and golden sands of the coastline. I trot along the track to Totaranui where I officially join the Abel Tasman Coastal Track.

From the estuary, I climb over a low saddle and wind down through lush forest to the jaw-droppingly beautiful Anapai Bay. Absorbing every detail of this secluded idyllic spot distracts me from the staleness of my day-old supermarket special sandwich. The clouds close in and the rain returns so I up and leave. From Anapai Bay to Mutton Cove, sandy beaches alternate with rocky headlands, but even the damp, dreary drizzle cannot detract from the stunning natural beauty.

Separation Point is a gnarly and worthwhile detour out along a narrow craggy outcrop of land, the natural boundary between Golden Bay and Tasman Bay. I retrace my steps inland to climb another saddle and then descend to the wind beaten Whariwharangi Bay.

Sited in a grassy clearing, tucked behind the beach in regenerating bush, Whariwharangi Hut is the most northern hut on the Abel Tasman Coastal Track. Built around 1896, this historic hut began life as a farming homestead and now is (allegedly) a haunted trekking hut. With the sun descending rapidly towards the horizon, I do not intend to stay and find out!

Climbing out of the bay to a stunning viewpoint overlooking Wainui Bay. After taking a moment to admire the setting sun, I race the sun towards the horizon to find my ship, for tomorrow I set sail...