Staying ahead...

An early start is required today to avoid the worst of the hordes at the beautiful Cathedral Cove. The obligatory stop off at this famous gigantic stone arch and natural waterfall shower is brought to an abrupt end as the rain beat the long line of everyone to this charming spot.

My route around the Coromandel Peninsula joins the SH25 at the blink-and-you'll-miss-it village of Whitianga. The legendary Coroglen Tavern, the archetypal middle-of-nowhere country pub, is my next stop. It is clear that this place will rock on a weekend in summer, but today it is a waypoint on the New Zealand Rally - Stage Four starts here! It is thrilling watching the homemade vehicles tear around the gravel roads, but then comes the rain.

Continuing North on the SH25, I soon reach the turn off for the less-travelled, but legendary 309 Road, an unsealed, untamed route that cuts through the Coromandel Range. About 3km through the native bush, I reach a road closed sign. The New Zealand Rally, unsurprisingly, is using this route for Stage Six. I debate whether to stay and watch the stage and then comes the rain.

The rain continues until I reach the holiday village of Kuaotunu with its beautiful stretch of white-sand beach and the rustic surf-shack ambience of Luke's Kitchen. I decide to stop here and refuel myself.

Heading off the highway at Te Rerenga takes me to Whangapoua. There is not much here, but I wade through a river and scramble along the rocky foreshore to the remote, stunning and undeveloped New Chum's Beach. At the southern end of the beach lies a rocky headland, I climb to the top to gain a better view of the stretch of sand that is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful in the country and then comes the rain.

Shortly before Coromandel Town, the SH25 narrows and then snakes along the coast past pretty little bays and rocky beaches to the dinky wooden buildings of Thames. I find a room in a character-filled 1860s heritage building and then goes the sun.