From the moment I landed, I was drawn into Ho Chi Minh City's thrilling vortex and hypnotised by the perpetual whir of its orbiting motorbikes. I am amazed by the number of people on bikes and the number of people the Vietnamese fit on one bike! The past two days of exploring this wonderful city have rewarded me with a wealth of history, delicious food and a fine selection of excellent craft beer.
Each day of touring began with a huge slurp of a steaming pho, followed by exploring Ho Chi Minh City on foot and collecting many unforgettable moments along the way. The War Remnants Museum conveyed the brutality of war and highlighted the impact on its civilian victims. It is tough, but important to be shown the victims' version of the many atrocities committed by the US military action. Pho Binh is a humble noodle-soup restaurant with an important history. This was the secret HQ of the Viet Cong in Saigon. Next up, I entered a cloud of incense within the mystical world of the Jade Emperor Pagoda.
At the end of day two, I caught a taxi across the city to pick up a Honda CRF 250cc - Harry - my trusty stead for the long journey northwards. My first journey did not go so well. As I drove back to my accommodation, my brain struggled to cope with the volume of traffic and the bizarre traffic signals. As a result, I accidentally ran two red lights and unintentionally went the wrong way up a one way road.
Now, on the Centec Tower's 23rd floor, I am sitting on Shri's stylish terrace gazing over the neon city at night. Below the frenetic pace of life on the streets seems a World away, but tomorrow I shall be immersed in the dizzying, high-octane roads once more...
The tunnel network of Cu Chi became legendary for its role facilitating the Viet Cong rebellion during the American War. It symbolises the tenacious and ingenious spirit of the Vietnamese people in overcoming incredible odds. To get here, I meet Linh, my guide for the tunnels, and the pace setter for my introductory journey to Vietnamese rush hour traffic.
Getting to the Cu Chi Tunnels from downtown Ho Chi Minh City requires a brief but nasty stretch on Highway 13, leading north over the clogged Binh Trieu Bridge and out into the smog of Ho Chi Minh City’s industrial belt. But, just as the appalling industrial apocalypse becomes too much to bear, new roads cut north, towards Binh Duong New City. An eerie but pleasing spectacle, these smooth boulevards run through the centre of a new urban development that’s been laid out and constructed but has yet to be filled with people. It’s a pleasant and smooth ride through this ghost city and out the other side into the cold, damp rubber plantations.
After a brief, but refreshing, break at the rubber plantations, Linh and I push on to Ben Duoc. Rougher and unaltered for tourists, here is a more realistic exhibit of the Cu Chi tunnel system. Linh shows me how the ingenious people of Cu Chi survived in the harshest of environments and conquered their enemies against unbelievable odds. At the end of this truly awe inspiring experience, I say goodbye to Linh and head to Cat Tien National Park.
Out on the country roads, size really matters. The huge wagons and buses use their bulk and their horn to simply barge any traffic out of their way. The bully boys of the road make the journey draining, but as the light from Harry becomes stronger than the sunlight, I reach the ferry to cross the Dong Nai River.
Lying conveniently midway between Ho Chi Minh City and Dalat, Cat Tien National Park is an amazing area of lowland tropical rainforest. Within its boundaries is the indigenous village of Ta Lai, my home for the night. In the traditional-style lodge of Ta Lai Longhouse, I swap the buzz of motorbikes for the cacophony of cicadas, a warm meal and a bed.
Distance: 282.9km
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