Over breakfast, it dawns on me that I am about two thirds of the way towards Hanoi and I am about two thirds of the way through my time in Vietnam. This means that I can make it to Hanoi, but I will have no time to explore the captivating capital. Neither will I be able to explore the thousands of amazing limestone islands of Halong Bay. By the time I have devoured my breakfast noodles, a new plan is in place...
Built on a hill overlooking the Perfume River, 4km southwest of the Citadel, Thien Mu Pagoda is an icon of Vietnam. The scenic ride, along the river, to the 21m-high octagonal tower, the first stop on my journey south back towards Da Nang.
To get to Da Nang, I have to traverse a spur of the Truong Son mountain range that juts into the sea, so I choose to, once again, ride switchback after switchback up and over the jaw-dropping Hai Van Pass - yes, it really was that good!
Upon arriving, my first job is to sell Harry back to a friend of his previous owners. I love this motorbike! With no time to get sentimental tho, I change my clothes, donate some of my old sweaty motorbike gear to the owner of the garage, repack and head to the train station.
The state-run Vietnam Railways are ageing, but offer a relaxing way to get to the capital city. I choose the most comfortable option (apart from the luxury carriages), a top bunk bed in the 4-berth soft-sleeper compartments. Since I paid the 30p extra to sleep in the VIP section, my carriage is air-conditioned and the sleeping berths are soft and comfy. There are perfectly adequate toilets and wash basins in every carriage, and the general standard of cleanliness is pretty good. A nice touch from Vietnam Railways is a desk lamp in each compartment, filling the space with soft, ambient light. Sadly, the other endearing little traditions that I read so much about have disappeared; instead, I am presented with a miniature bottle of water.
Shortly after boarding, the night train jerks into life! The clickity-clack of the rails is part of the romance of any train journey, but this is another level. After rolling out of Da Nang Station, the train rattles through the night towards Hanoi.
With the motorbike part of the adventure over, it is time to relax and reflect on my time in Vietnam. Astonishingly exotic and utterly compelling, Vietnam is a country of breathtaking natural beauty. I am truly amazed by the spirit, determination and sheer lust for life of the Vietnamese people. I will return someday soon to finish my journey.
With the motorbike part of the adventure over, it is time to relax and reflect on my time in Vietnam. Astonishingly exotic and utterly compelling, Vietnam is a country of breathtaking natural beauty. I am truly amazed by the spirit, determination and sheer lust for life of the Vietnamese people. I will return someday soon to finish my journey.
Distance: 139.6km
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