I leave Le Manon for the mountain village of Bellecombe or 'beautiful bowl', which may be a beautiful bowl but is currently filled with misty soup, the occasional farmhouse-crouton and pine-tree-lardons. This open pasture winds its way alongside the limestone crest of the Haute Jura chain which occasionally pokes through the sleet filled clouds. After a steady climb I reach the high point just under the Cret au Merle (1448m), I know now that the end of the journey nears.
To complete this fantastic journey, I make a gradual descent through the forest to the trail end, near but not quite, at Giron. A knee-aching two-kilometre hike to the village was draining. My heart sank further when I am informed that there are no taxis to take me to the train station, a further 23km away. As I contemplate my next move over a sandwich and a cold fruity local beer, a random act of kindness is bestowed upon me. A lady called Florence overheard my troubles and, unbeknownst to me, asks the family at the next table, who were just leaving, if they will take me to the train station. They kindly agree. Within moments I have swallowed a sandwich, necked a cold beer, paid, said thank you to everyone in the room and am sat in the back of a family wagon, wedged between two sixteen year olds as we zig-zag down the hill towards Bellegarde-sur-Valserine. The family are truly delightful and it is a shame that the journey only lasts thirty-minutes.
Safely on the train, I take the time to reflect on my journey. In this quiet corner of France, amidst a weather beaten Gallic culture cut off for centuries from both France and Switzerland, it is not unusual to ski all day without seeing anyone else. This is a unique trip and a true journey on skis, where the enigmatic landscapes will captivate and reward even the most seasoned of traveller. The charm of places like the Jura lies in what they are definitively not: resorts designed to push as many people through the slopes as possible. And what is most striking about the Jura is the sense of how its small and charming ski resorts feel such a part of the local community and the landscape. For those reasons, I will be back.
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