Ocean Drive

A little weary of driving along the highway, I choose to get off the Pacific Highway and drive along the coast to explore the series of atmospheric little towns and long stretches of unspoilt beaches and lush forests. The road first passes the shallow Lake Cathie and then heads through Laurieton where I grab my breakfast. A short drive southwest is Crowdy Head, a small fishing and surfing town on the edge of a national park. The views of deserted beaches and wilderness from the 1878 lighthouse are extraordinary.

The road wriggles back out to the coast. Old Bar, at the southern head of the Manning River, is a long-time surfing favourite. I then head inland and follow the fertile Manning Valley. Beyond the increasingly urban Forster, I drive through an extravagantly pretty section of the coast that feels deliciously remote. Myall Lakes National Park is a patchwork of lakes, islands, dense rainforests and beaches. I take a sharp left to head to the remarkably undeveloped hamlet of Seal Rocks, which hugs the surf-mecca of Sugarloaf Bay. Further south, the lakes are home to an incredible number and variety of bird life.

As Harrison and I roll sluggishly into the port city of Newcastle, I refresh myself with a few of the 21 eclectic Australian-brewed craft beers that are on tap at the historic Grain Store Craft Beer Cafe.

Distance: 352.5km