Goodbye Finland! Hello Norway...

The results of yesterday’s panning for gold are truly realised this morning. Despite owning a wide range of anti-mosquito sprays and devices, I was eaten to death yesterday, as I was too stupid to use any of them. My back and arms look like a map of the stars, if the stars were small, red and bloody itchy!!

Shortly after departing Ivalo, I see a sign promising wonderful panoramic views of Lake Inari. So once again, I head off-road. I reach the top of the short steep hill and dishearteningly find a fence around the viewpoint. The charge is €10 for entry. Now I know locals needs to make a living, but I strongly believe that a viewpoint should be free. I therefore take the moral high ground by heading downwards :)

As I descend the steep loose track back to the main highway, a splendid view of Lake Inari opens up in front of me. I whip my camera out and fire off a few shots. I feel somewhat smug as I continue North…

Inari is not a particularly attractive village, but it is my final fuel stop in Finland and marks the beginning of the real wilderness.

For the next sixty miles there was no sign of any civilisation, except for a few random buildings. The road undulates wonderfully through this barren landscape. As I am driving along I recall a game my Dad used to play with us when we were kids. He would accelerate as we climbed the hill just enough so that as we hit the apex of the hill our stomachs would feel like they were going to pop out. This is how I entertain myself along this stretch of road, until at one point my bottom leaves the seat for a little too long and the landing is a little scary to say the least. I stop playing after this.

I reach the Finnish-Norwegian at Karigasniemi and sail through to Norway. As soon as cross the Karasjok River, I notice a distinct difference in the scenery. How does it know to do that?!

It takes me a while to recognise what the difference actually is and then – ding! – it comes to me. Mountains. I love riding my bike along the Karasjok River through this more mountainous terrain.

At Karasjok, which claims to be the capital of Lapland, I meet Norway’s Arctic Highway. The Arctic Highway takes me across the 70°N latitude as it climbs gently through a more rugged terrain. I pass by warning signs not to stop as I reach Porsangermoen, which is home to a Military Arctic Training Camp. I have never seen so many skidoos parked in one place in my life!

At Lakselv, I descend out of the mountains and begin to snake along the edge of a huge fjord. The views are breath taking, as are some of the corners – now is not the time to be distracted!

Before heading out towards Nordkapp, there is time for one last fuel stop at Olderfjord.

The route northwards follows the edge of the Porsangerfjord. The scenery once again is incredibly beautiful. Must. Not. Get. Distracted! Occasionally there is a short tunnel to rob me of the splendid vista and refocus me on the job in hand.

The Nordkapptunnelen is the undersea link to the island of Magerøy. Upon first entering the tunnel, a cold blast of air hits me like a slap in the face. As I descend deeper, fog fills the tunnel reducing my visibility. I feel the change in gradient as I begin to climb to the surface. Emerging from the tunnel into the warm Arctic sun was pleasant feeling, especially when I read the sign on the toll station:

From the 29.06.2012 the tunnel is free.

Result! Apparently the costs of building the tunnel have been recouped and therefore the charges are no longer necessary. All very civilised :)

I arrive in Honningsvåg, my base for the next two days, and discover that the best weather for the midnight sun will be tonight. I make a quick pit stop and continue North largely through wilderness…

Europe's northernmost point, Nordkapp, rises to a majestic 307 meters above the Barents Sea. Nordkapp is a coastal plateau at N71°10´21˝ latitude; here the sun never drops below the horizon from mid-May to the end of July.

Sadly there is a touristy complex with the usual tat. That said, the tourists do provide some amusement from the German couple barking orders at everyone in a futile attempt to clear the monument for their photo to the mad group of Dutch people who, dressed all in orange, were on their own crazy journey.

Luckily I do not have to walk far long the cliffs to really appreciate Nordkapp and, away from all the hullabaloo, I perch myself on the edge of the continent and watch the sun skim across the sky…

Distance: 264.0 miles