Saturday 14 July 2012

Knivskjelodden

I have a small confession to make…

Nordkapp claims to be the northernmost point in Europe and is the main destination for most visitors to the far north. It is, however, not Europe's northernmost point, by any definition.

Knivskjelodden (latitude N71°11´08˝) is notable for being the northernmost point of mainland Norway, and therefore of mainland Europe.

Well, I am not coming all this way and not reaching the most northern point! So there is only one thing for me to do…

The continent’s real northernmost point is, thankfully, inaccessible to vehicles. So I ride my motorbike to the marked car park about five miles south of Nordkapp, throw on my backpack and follow the Cairns.

The hike starts off fairly pleasant across undulating terrain until I descend steeply to a sheltered cove. En-route I saw a herd of reindeer – one of which was a pure white!

From this secluded spot, I could see Nordkapp across the bay, shrouded in cloud. Any folk there cannot see their hand in front of their face, let alone the spectacular display of the midnight sun that I was privileged to witness yesterday.

I departed the cove and scampered over slopes of bare rock to the northernmost point of the European mainland and the millennium cairn. Here I signed the visitor’s book (number 604) and took in the view.

I can see why Knivskjellodden is the overlooked in favour of Nordkapp. It may be about 1600 metres farther north, but it just fades into the sea. Contrast this with the dramatic sea cliffs of Nordkapp and I can see which would sell more t-shirts :)

At this latitude the weather can change very fast. On the way back to my motorbike I can tell a storm was coming in. As soon as I finish zipping up my waterproof biking suit, the heavens open. The ride back to Honningsvåg is wild. I am being blown all over the road and at times can only see meters in front of me. This serves as a reminder of how harsh this environment can be.

En-route I call into Corner’s Café for some food. For starter, I have the deep fried cod tongue and for main, the whale steak.

With my belly full, it is now time to dry my stuff out and think about moving on…

Distance: 35.5 miles (Motorbike) and 11.2 miles (Hike)

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