Leaving the chaos of breakfast time at Krækkja behind, I strap on my heavy back pack, jump on my skis and ready myself for departure. A ski expedition is a bizarre occupation, best suited to those with short memories, a high tolerance to pain and no access to huskies or skidoos. All the aches, pains and negatives soon vanish from my mind as I fly along the frozen lake to Fagerheim. Upon arrival I need to remove my skis to cross a road!?!
After a short climb, the road disappears and I am back on a frozen lake; skiing along, enjoying the view and soaking up the sun. Before I even think of checking the map, the wind turbine that powers the Heinseter Turisthytta comes into view. Here I stop for a spot of lunch, knowing that the downhill run is waiting for me like a big chocolatey desert.
I got a little carried away, enjoying the downhill section, and ended up descending right down to the hut. Now I have a much longer and steeper climb...
Upon meeting folk today, my journey provokes two reactions:
- "That's impressive!"
- "You're crazy!!"
I prefer the former. One woman I meet on the climb from Heinseter provides my third lesson in how to be a Norwegian: how to hold my poles.
It is amazing how a great morning can become a shitty afternoon.
The disheartening climb from Heinseter is false summit after false summit. Without having a map with a detailed enough scale, there is only one way for me to figure out where I am. My research indicated that the length of today's route is approximately 28km. It is, in fact, closer to 33km.
Now five kilometres might not sound like a lot, but every false summit is a hope dashed. Every uphill is a struggle as logic tells me not to stop and wax my skis as I am nearly there!!
I am an idiot and have learned my lesson here.
Imagine my despair as I slip and slide my way to the top of a hill only to be confronted by another wall of white. I lose my composure at some points as I look for someone or something to blame for my predicament.
All is calm and everything is forgotten as I round the final bend and Rauhellern comes into sight. I even manage a wry smile to myself.
This charming little hut has everything that I need for a comfortable stay. Latecomers, i.e. me, get put in the cabin with no amenities or electricity... I love it! Especially lying on my bunk putting my thoughts down on paper by candlelight.
Trip by numbers...
Distance: 32.7km
Vertical: 1155m
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