How to be a Norwegian.

Day One: Finse to Krækkja

During the sumptuous meal last night, I was joined by a Norwegian called Paul. Due to Earth Hour, the meal was conducted purely by candlelight, which was a little weird considering we had just met... I kept an open mind and I am glad I did as Paul turned out to be the perfect guide for my Norwegian adventure.

Paul has been traversing the Hardangervidda once a year for the last thirty nine years. It was this experience that made him look at me in disbelief as I answered every question he had about my adventure. I went to bed with lots of nagging doubts about my route, equipment,...

This morning at breakfast, Paul informed me that his plans for the day have changed and he could give me an introductory lesson in how to ski across the Hardangervidda. So I delayed my departure and took my first lessons in how to be a Norwegian.

Lesson One: Making Sandwiches

I am still slightly embarrassed to admit that I did learn something!

Lesson Two: Waxing Skis to Grip and Glide

The look of disbelief returned to Paul's face when he saw my skis, "these are downhill skis!!"; "I know" I replied timidly.

With my lessons over, I head out on to the frozen lake and up on to the Hardangervidda. Any scepticism I had about the Norwegian methods are soon dispelled as I ski uphill without any problems. As the sun shines overhead, I skirt underneath the impressive Hardangerjøkulen. My journey quickly settles into a rhythm. Up and over a col, then ski along the lake.

En-route I meet many other folk who inform me of two things:

1. The weather is not normally like this.
2. My skis are too heavy for this journey... I am finding this out the hard way!

That said, days like this are worth suffering for! Skies are blue, the snow is crisp and the going on the whole is good.

I am a lonely traveller in this vast landscape. Overlooking the frozen lake and the ancient peaks that flank its shores, I realise that even though I am alone, I am in great company.

The sun is getting lower in the sky as I begin to labour up one more col. The wax on my skis is wearing out and my spirits are beginning to dip. They soon lift as I reach the top of a col and see a hut off in the distance. It is a bit further away than I hoped, but I will take it.

As I descend from the col, I am surprised to see another hut come into sight. It is my hut!

There is another surprise waiting for me when I find my room in the hut. Me. One floor. Twenty mattresses and fifteen Boy Scouts! It is a good job that I packed my earplugs :)

There is no time to gripe as I establish what will soon become my evening routine. Sort skis. Sort maps. Shower. Food. Bed. Zzzzzzz......

Trip by numbers...

Distance: 23.4km

Vertical: 1066m