Saturday 23 March 2013

Like a bullet from a gun...

Time marches on and the temperature counts down as my train winds its way northwards between the lakes and rivers. Often described as the World's best train journey, the Bergen Line links Norway's two main cities, Oslo and Bergen. This journey takes in some dazzling scenery, with the most spectacular stretch being the one over the Hardangervidda, Europe's highest mountainous plateau. Finse, at 1 222 metres above sea level, is the highest point on the line and my time to leave the train. As I am collecting my gear, the display informs me that the temperature outside is -9°C.

I step off the train and the cold biting air slaps me in the face. The perfect antidote after five hours of drifting in and out of consciousness. Finse nestles between Hallingskarvet National Park and Hardangervidda National Park on a wide open expanse of white, as if I have landed on a frozen moon.

First, I check into my accommodation for the evening; the historic Finse 1222. Built in 1909 as a rescue lodge for passengers on trains that were obstructed by snow or bad weather, nowadays it is a museum-cum-hotel. The place is littered with artefacts from the building of the railway. A little corner of the hotel grabbed my attention straight away. Here there are photos and memorabilia from when Star Wars: The Empire Strikes Back was filmed here.

After dumping my bag, I decide to go for a quick ski to warm my legs up. As I tighten my boots, I watch two Norwegians being catapulted through the air by the rickety old button lift. Now it's my turn...

I take hold of the button. Nothing happens. A huge bear-sized man shows me the lever that needs flicking. I flick and my arms feel like they are stretching cartoon-like as the lift snatches me from my standing position.

Fortunately I keep my balance, although I am never comfortable on the ride to the top of the hill. The views Southwards of the snowy plateau stretch for miles show me what the days ahead have in store. I see another train pull into the station below me. There, a few hours earlier, one journey ended and now another begins...

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