Ghost Town

The café itself is small with only two tables inside, the rest fill the medieval cobbled streets. I am enjoying my Pan con Tomate y Jamón Ibérico and trying to read my book as two women fire words at each other with the speed of a machine gun firing bullets, when it suddenly dawns on me that I have not spoken a word of English in twenty-four-hours. Nobody seems to speak it much around here... 

By midday my motorbike is loaded and ready to ride. After several attempts thwarted by dead-ends or staircases, I finally leave the medieval town and wind my way southwards through the deserted shrub covered dusty land of the Valencian Community. My petrol warning light sparks into life and gives my mind something to focus on. I have not seen a petrol station in over an hour of riding and my mind chooses all the potentially fatal scenarios on which to focus.

As if to save me from my misery, a tiny two pump petrol station appears on the horizon. As I roll onto the forecourt, a little Spanish man springs to life . Much to his dismay, I insist on filling my own bike. Chaos then ensues when more folk arrive and the Pump Attendant in a panic creates a chaotic weave of petrol pumps to vehicles. Despite being the first to arrive, I have to wait my turn to leave as he has sewn me into the forecourt! The Pump Attendant throws me an apologetic glance, I smile at him as I prepare to get back on the road.

Passing from the Eastern Hemisphere into the West is celebrated with a simple sign. The next part of my journey is spent contemplating the alignment of countries to understand how the Greenwich Meridian Line can pass through London and the North East of Spain.

Despite the numerous cans of coke, my eyelids are fighting a losing battle with gravity. I pull out my map and guide book to decide tonight's destination. Murcia City is described as "a laid-back provincial capital that comes alive at during the weekend". Sounds promising, so I hop back on my motorbike and head southwards. I pull off the motorway on to a five lane road and then join a five lane roundabout, only the strange thing is, I am the only person on the road and it is 5pm! Despite being almost in the centre of the city, I have not seen a soul. When checking into my hotel, I am informed that everybody is at the beach as it is not a working day. They will back on Monday, the concierge informs me with a helpful smile.