After the initial climb out of Høvringen, the terrain gently undulates. Soon I reach the end of the prepared løypa and head into more mountainous terrain. Despite the poor visibility and the more isolated location, there are still quite a few people out on the fjells. I later learn that the Easter weekend is traditionally the time when families in Norway head into the mountains.
The Smuksjøseter Fjellstue appears from between two peaks as I continue to slip and slide my way along the valley floor. Moments later a noise catches my attention. At first, I thought was a helicopter, but then what looks like a converted 2CV ploughs past me towing roughly twenty skiers behind it. As I stand there, bewildered, a second vehicle with more skiers shoots past me.
Given the number of new arrivals, I ski past the lodge and continue to wind my way across the mountain plateau. When I reach the tiny Peer Gynt-hytta, I take a short break. Gradually more and more folk appear out of the mist until the place is overcrowded. When the blue sky finally puts in an appearance, I take this as my cue to leave and start the silky descent to Mysuseter. The blue skies finally overpower the thick grey clouds, I take a look back to se the rounded peaks, deep corries and steep cliffs of the Rondane National Park.
Skiing through the tiny settlement of Mysuseter is a sheer delight. The route follows a babbling brook that has recently been awaken from its frozen slumber. I dodge between Silver Birch on my way down to Fujusjoen. Here, I ski along the edge of the frozen lake trying to find a safe place to cross to Rondablikk.
I am exhausted by the time I arrive in Rondablikk and horrified to see that my accommodation is a building site! Norwegian hospitality being what it is, I should not have worried. The owner has delayed her holiday to greet my arrival (as their only guest of Winter 2016). I am given solo use of a cabin that sleeps more than twenty and has a fully stocked fridge!
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