Sunday 1 August 2010

Le Miroir d'Argentine

It is illegal to mow your lawn before 10am on a Sunday. If, however, the Sunday happens to fall on the 1st August (Swiss National Day), then it is fine to fire a cannon at 6am!!? :)

The early start was not such a bad thing as today we will were attempting the fourteen pitch route Le Miroir d'Argentine Directe, which was first climbed in 1963.

We scrambled to the base of the climb and roped up in the shade of this large bit of rock. We remained in the cooling shade for the first pitches as we climbed up the huge left leaning corner groove. The climbing got very interesting at time with narrow chimneys and a tight squeeze through the letter box.

After grabbing a quick bite to eat on a small ledge, there was a short steep section between us and the warmth of the sun. As I pulled over on to the slab, I could feel my fingers being brought back to life by the sun's rays.

Once in the sun we moved up by finding small toeholds or smearing the soles of our shoes against the rock and sinking our hands into the huge crack. We followed this interesting line as it wanders up to the ridge.

We then moved along the ridge on to the true summit. After a short time on the summit, we began the long descent back to the valley, as there was a storm closing in. Luckily we arrived back at the car minutes before the storm started :)

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